• 2011-06-08

    巴黎街拍 - [时装人们]


    香榭丽大道在我眼里并不是血拼大街,而是很有人情味的一条风情大道

    很有爱吧

    巴黎的型男有没有意大利多我不敢说,但是美女绝对在数量上占绝对性优势

    从普通的路人身上我充分感受到了这座城市又匆匆又悠闲的生活形态


    黑白灰是这里的主流,当然还有气质系的裸色系


    走到哪里都很关注的advanced style



    偶尔看到古铜色肌肤配鲜艳的亮色系也是让人惊喜的事情


    如果意大利人是以风格突出的,那么巴黎人绝对是以时髦取胜
    巴黎女生超级爱vintage,而且平胸的boyish小妞在这里很有市场

    最后,入乡随俗地黑一回......

  • 佛洛伦萨、米兰明显比罗马穿得好看的人多

    意大利的型男的确很多,不过看到最多的地方不是佛洛伦萨或者米兰,而是威尼斯

    这年头抓拍的人中,十个里面至少有8个是在打电话或者看手机

    工作关系,养成拍单车客的习惯

    前文强调的advanced style

    老爷子从红色的座架上走下的那刻太有腔调了,可惜我慢了半拍。。。


    时髦的一家子

    最后,向长途旅行者推荐下MBT吧,真心觉得它不好看,但是也真心觉得它穿得舒服啊!

  • 2011-05-14

    羅馬街拍 - [时装人们]

    每去一個城市都很喜歡拍路人,雖然很多都是未經過本人同意的抓拍,但是還是很執迷這種記錄。這種街拍不是時裝周那種瘦子雲集,大家特地為某個場合打扮的時尚街拍,而是影普通人在最平常的場合裏最舒服的狀態。

    意大利整體給人的感覺是很“閒適”,就像《eat,pray,love》那本書裏強調的“Dolce far niente”(sweet doing nothing),而這種感覺在羅馬尤其明顯。整個城市似乎處處都是遊客,而無論身処何地都可被雕塑、古跡、廢墟包圍,很容易產生時光漫步的錯覺。

    也許是旅遊業過度發達,很難吸引年輕人,在這裡看到的本地人以年紀大的爲主,可是也正是在年長的人身上我更能感受到意大利服裝鼎盛的往昔和意大利人對於著裝的精致要求。老太太們多穿呢絨套裝,胸針、絲巾、耳環、小提包一個都不能少,比年輕人們講究多了。

    遊客們也多是休閑地曬著太陽,這種感覺對於長期生活在石屎森林快節奏都市的我來説實在好極了。

    一排吃panini的小朋友,說起食物,意大利吃的東西的種類真是有限,來來回回都是panini,pizza或者paster,可是我也很感慨,意大利完全沒有被全球化快餐給globalize,我沒有看到過starbucks(因爲這裡任何一間cafe的coffee都比它家好喝),也很少見到麥儅儅,這真值得天朝學習。

    老大爺踩的時髦復古單車在這裡很常見,在石板小路上踩著腳踏車應該算是最意大利的事情之一了吧。

    連乞討的老婆婆都帶著好看的絲巾,我都快無語了。。。

    在Navona廣場后的小街裏尋找vintage小鋪的時候偶遇一對穿著非常上世紀的情侶,一下子好像時光倒流七十年,用網絡上時髦的那句話表達:“我穿越了!”

    意大利多型男,穿著考究氣質優雅的熟男多數代表,比起意大利其他城市,羅馬這樣的人比較少

    在斗獸場留意這個女孩多時,混血look加上蓬鬆的捲髮令她的氣質很特別,可惜一直抓不到正面,我可疑的行徑好像被她發現了。。。。。。

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    认识Giorgio Sant'Angelo也是从淘到这条今天看起来也非常时髦入时的红色阔腿裤开始。(也就是店里正在卖的这条

    Bluetramontana Style 上搜到一篇介绍他的很好的文章:

    “ Giorgio di Sant'Angelo (the "di" was later dropped) was a child of the 1960s. Unlike many of the decade's talented new designers— including Pierre Cardin, André Courréges, and Rudi Gernreich—who suffered symptoms of career burnout as the 1960s came to a close, Sant'Angelo soared on a creative high. His formative years, leading up to his move to New York, included an education in the arts in Florence and a studio apprenticeship with Picasso who urged Sant'Angelo to trust his own restless creativity and to keep trying new artistic ventures.

    (看了david colman这篇文章 就会发现,Giorgio Sant'Angelo不仅仅是一个时装设计师,他的经历太丰富了,不仅师从过picasso,还学过建筑、法律,以及动画,甚至从事过室内设计,直到后来帮Diana Vreeland做造型)


    Sant'Angelo, who had an affinity for the new plastics developed with futuristic technology, designed Lucite jewelry and accessories in colorful geometric shapes. Diana Vreeland, editor of Vogue from 1963-71, found his designs to be in step with her own ideas and gave him carte blanche as a stylist. The results of their association during the late 1960s were stunning examples of the breadth of Sant'Angelo's originality. His concoctions of colored Veruschka were the peak of fashion fantasy. This option of make-believe went beyond mere merchandise shown in a magazine layout. His work was theatrical, exotic, and on some level could be considered performance art; this taste for escapism through dress coincided with the escalation of the Vietnam War beginning in 1968.


    Inspired by hippie and street fashions, Sant'Angelo also translated ideas that would fit the marketplace. His love of ethnic clothing was evident, and his gypsy looks included elements of romanticism. Introducing a modern component, he incorporated Lycra body suits with these varied influences. He offered women a chance at self-expression through dress. In 1972 Sant'Angelo left behind his gypsy and Native American inspirations and concentrated on body-conscious designs combining knits and wovens. His 33-piece collection was shown at the Guggenheim Museum and further emphasized Sant'Angelo's commitment to fashion design as an artform. "To me, soul means freedom and inner confidence," Sant'Angelo commented on the collection. "I express it in happy, bright colors, and in simplicity of design." He presented matching knit shirts, tops, trousers, and bras that folded into an envelope for travel. These pieces were based around a body stocking and formed the 1970s American fashion silhouette. "“ We had nothing but some yards of fabric, some stones, and some ropes." Veruschka.


    One of Veruschka's most famous shoots. Veruschka, photographer Franco Rubartelli, and then stylist Giorgio di Sant'Angelo were sent into the Arizona desert by Diana Vreeland with nothing but bolts of fabric and fur, and Dynel wigs. The resulting pictures published in July 1968 have become a legendary example in creating something out of nothing.(这组片子其实挺有看《国家地理杂志》的感觉,30年后katie grand也受这套片子启发,为pop拍了一组模特feature prada和john galliano衣服的片子,之后当然还有很多很多后世模仿的例子,比如下面vogue这个naomi的封面 )


    An old advertisement read, "Giorgio Sant'Angelo Spoken Here," a true statement as how he saw his work as a new language in fashion. He admired the ideas of Rudi Gernreich, whose work also contributed key elements to modern design. He also respected the work of Halston, Elsa Peretti, Betsey Johnson, Stephen Burrows, Oscar de la Renta, Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Cardin, and Valentino. Throughout the 1980s fashion shifts, Sant'Angelo worked on classical refinements of his own concepts. Poised for a timely reemergence as a name in fashion, Giorgio Sant'Angelo died in 1989. A truly original free spirit was lost forever, yet his name lived on with his company, and as inspiration for a new generation of designers making retro the hottest trend of the late 1990s and early 2000s. Among his admirers were David Meister, whose spring 2002 collection was reminiscent of Sant'Angelo styles from throughout the 1970s, as well as Marc Jacobs who winked at the hip decade's duds in his spring 2002 showing.”
    Myra Walker


    Giorgio di Sant’Angelo and Veruschka, 1969. Photo: Harry Benson.

    Giorgio di Sant'Angelo and Moniqe ivan Vooren at a party thrown by di Sant'Angelo, 1972. © Condé Nast Archive/Corbis.

    Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Tatjana Patitz, Christy Turlington, and Cindy Crawford in tops, 1990, by Giorgio di Sant’Angelo, British Vogue, January, 1990/
    Photograph by Peter Lindbergh


    "If you had to pick one designer from the late sixties and the early seventies, he's the one." Harold Koda, curator of the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute.

     

     

  • 2010-09-27

    东京街拍 - [时装人们]

    在东京最爱观察街头的路人,大部分都仿佛从时尚杂志的街拍版面走出来似的,如果你想知道现在流行什么只要去原宿的街头逛一圈就大致了解了。你可以发现两种不同的街头时尚,一种是街头行人,一种是骑在单车上的型人。街头上的行人各种风格的都有,最令我感动的是无论是小孩,年轻人,轻熟龄妇人,甚至是老人,都对穿着都非常讲究,无论是配色,上下搭配,还是配件小物都很清新舒服,协调自然。而第二种型人在世界其他城市恐怕都是不多见的,日本的单车非常普及,而且单车的设计也很时髦,例如淑女可以选择有藤篮设计的复古款式,有小孩地还可以在前后加上专门为儿童设计的座椅,潮人们也可以选择前卫专业的Fixed-gear型,对于他们而言,单车俨然已经成为整体造型的一部分!